Day 1 - Kochi
Kochi is located in Kerala, a southern state with lush landscape, famous backwaters, and the highest literacy rate in India, supposedly at a whopping 100%. I say supposedly because that doesn't seem quite possible, even in the best of conditions. And after meeting many people who I wouldn't consider literate, I either assume that either a.) statistics in India are like they are everywhere else: skewed or b.) their standard of "literate" is a bit different than that in the US. Either way, as I found out after traveling to other states, Kerala does seem to have a higher literacy rate and a lower poverty rate.
My first stop in Kochi was at Sangeeth's flat, a friend of Brooke. She was staying on the top floor (fourth floor, I believe) and he was kind enough to let me stay for the duration of my time in Kochi as well. Important business first though, must have a whiskey. Chivas Regal, 12 years to be exact. Sangeeth, to be known as Sangy Bangy from now on, requested I buy 2 bottles from the duty free shop in the airport, since it is not available in the government-run liquor shops in India due to importation restrictions. Being of Irish and Native American descent, I have never gotten along particularly well with whiskey. You might think they go swell together, but let me reassure you that is not the case with me. But I had a glass to be polite, and one turned into two. Once I heard the 5:00am call to prayer though, I felt I better hit the sack and get some rest for the adventure before me. I still had no idea what was in store. I remember thinking that was the first perfect moment of my trip. Meeting new people, feeling welcome so far away from home, and hearing these new sounds while the sun rose.
Day 1 (Tecnhically) 04.10.2012
Getting some rest on the plane rides, I woke up at a decent time the next morning. My first real order of business was to go to Sangy Bangy's dress shop he owned with his wife. As far as clothing went, I had only the clothes on my back and a few changes. My plan was to get fitted for salwar kameez and wear those throughout my trip. I did this for a few reasons. First, I figured Indians know how to dress better in their climate than I, and being from Wyoming I hardly have clothes fit for a humid oven. Another reason was for modesty's sake. I don't wear the most modest of clothes and I felt the need to be respectful. But most of all I think their dresses are beautiful! I love all of the different colors, patterns, sequins, scarves (dupatas), and styles. So I picked out my fabrics, styles for each and length and got measured. I was told they would be ready over the next few days.
With that out of the way, we met Brooke's friend, Ricky, at his hotel down the street. He was from Jaisalmer, Rajasthan and would be traveling with Brooke over the next few months. He seemed nice enough, staring and laughing at me when I talked. At first I couldn't tell if he thought I was funny or had no idea what I was saying and it was more of a "smile-and-nod" sort of reaction. We took a ferry to Fort Kochi off the mainland, only 3 Rupees (6 cents!!!). We found a tiny "vegetarian hotel" serving thali on a banana leaf. We didn't have to order, that was all that was served at that time of day. Thali consists of different items like rice, dhal, vegetables, roti, chutney, and other dishes that I am unfamiliar with. Some tasted sweet, some sour, and some I am not able to explain. I tried eating with my hands but I was pretty unsuccessful my first go. Thali = 30 Rupees, 60 cents!
Met a friend of Ricky's for a watermelon lassi then down the street for a few Kingfisher beers. "Just one more, just one more," said Ricky's friend. He was an interesting fellow, from the UK. Was part of a company who organized the "Rickshaw Run," which sounds awesome, by the way http://www.theadventurists.com/the-adventures/rickshaw-run.
We stumbled back to the ferry pretty early, and by the time we got back to Sangy's flat we were ready to party some more. He had bought more whiskey, and gin at my request. I heard the British used to drink Gin and Tonics in India to keep the risk of malaria down, but I suppose I didn't put much thought into realizing that tonic is the ingredient that has the health benefits and I drank it with water and sprite. For the record, I was taking anti-malaria pills that went on to make me very sick upon my return to the States. Friends of Sangy stopped by. A DJ friend who plays in the hottest clubs in Kochi. Another friend, Varghese had a few drinks with us. We laughed, smoked, drank, played music, danced and laughed some more. Sangy's favorite thing to say is "FOB Rocks!!!" It makes me laugh everytime. It means "Fun is Our Business." And he means it. In our drunken state we all vowed to make special Sangy Bangy t-shirts with a picture of him and all of his ridiculous quotes on it. Hasn't happenned to date, by the way. Varghese invited us to stay in his guesthouse in Alleppey, just a ways from Kochi later in the week. Definitely going to take him up on that offer.
Mosquitoes bit the shit out of me. I am not hot, sweaty and covered in bites.
My first stop in Kochi was at Sangeeth's flat, a friend of Brooke. She was staying on the top floor (fourth floor, I believe) and he was kind enough to let me stay for the duration of my time in Kochi as well. Important business first though, must have a whiskey. Chivas Regal, 12 years to be exact. Sangeeth, to be known as Sangy Bangy from now on, requested I buy 2 bottles from the duty free shop in the airport, since it is not available in the government-run liquor shops in India due to importation restrictions. Being of Irish and Native American descent, I have never gotten along particularly well with whiskey. You might think they go swell together, but let me reassure you that is not the case with me. But I had a glass to be polite, and one turned into two. Once I heard the 5:00am call to prayer though, I felt I better hit the sack and get some rest for the adventure before me. I still had no idea what was in store. I remember thinking that was the first perfect moment of my trip. Meeting new people, feeling welcome so far away from home, and hearing these new sounds while the sun rose.
Day 1 (Tecnhically) 04.10.2012
Getting some rest on the plane rides, I woke up at a decent time the next morning. My first real order of business was to go to Sangy Bangy's dress shop he owned with his wife. As far as clothing went, I had only the clothes on my back and a few changes. My plan was to get fitted for salwar kameez and wear those throughout my trip. I did this for a few reasons. First, I figured Indians know how to dress better in their climate than I, and being from Wyoming I hardly have clothes fit for a humid oven. Another reason was for modesty's sake. I don't wear the most modest of clothes and I felt the need to be respectful. But most of all I think their dresses are beautiful! I love all of the different colors, patterns, sequins, scarves (dupatas), and styles. So I picked out my fabrics, styles for each and length and got measured. I was told they would be ready over the next few days.
With that out of the way, we met Brooke's friend, Ricky, at his hotel down the street. He was from Jaisalmer, Rajasthan and would be traveling with Brooke over the next few months. He seemed nice enough, staring and laughing at me when I talked. At first I couldn't tell if he thought I was funny or had no idea what I was saying and it was more of a "smile-and-nod" sort of reaction. We took a ferry to Fort Kochi off the mainland, only 3 Rupees (6 cents!!!). We found a tiny "vegetarian hotel" serving thali on a banana leaf. We didn't have to order, that was all that was served at that time of day. Thali consists of different items like rice, dhal, vegetables, roti, chutney, and other dishes that I am unfamiliar with. Some tasted sweet, some sour, and some I am not able to explain. I tried eating with my hands but I was pretty unsuccessful my first go. Thali = 30 Rupees, 60 cents!
After lunch we walked along the beach where we had the chance to see the Chinese fishing nets. 
We stumbled back to the ferry pretty early, and by the time we got back to Sangy's flat we were ready to party some more. He had bought more whiskey, and gin at my request. I heard the British used to drink Gin and Tonics in India to keep the risk of malaria down, but I suppose I didn't put much thought into realizing that tonic is the ingredient that has the health benefits and I drank it with water and sprite. For the record, I was taking anti-malaria pills that went on to make me very sick upon my return to the States. Friends of Sangy stopped by. A DJ friend who plays in the hottest clubs in Kochi. Another friend, Varghese had a few drinks with us. We laughed, smoked, drank, played music, danced and laughed some more. Sangy's favorite thing to say is "FOB Rocks!!!" It makes me laugh everytime. It means "Fun is Our Business." And he means it. In our drunken state we all vowed to make special Sangy Bangy t-shirts with a picture of him and all of his ridiculous quotes on it. Hasn't happenned to date, by the way. Varghese invited us to stay in his guesthouse in Alleppey, just a ways from Kochi later in the week. Definitely going to take him up on that offer.
Mosquitoes bit the shit out of me. I am not hot, sweaty and covered in bites.
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