1.16.13 - Udaipur

Here I am on Day 8 of my Rickshaw Journey.  I have driven a total of a little morethan 700 kilometers that took 4 days, with a few days rest in between (and time to fix various mechanical items).  Here is a recap:

Day 1 - Wednesday, January 9, 2013

Being the first day of the journey, I knew it would take some time to get out of town.  Planned to leave around 11:00 am, but those dreams were shattered quickly.  Had to fix a punctured tire, get the new horn working (possible the single most important part of the rickshaw), and a few other things.  When I was confident the ride was ready to go, we were ready to be sent off.  The astrologer who was also Brahmin showed up at the perfect time to give us a pooja (prayer) complete with the required items I bought the night before.  A string of marigolds, Indian sweets, some roses, a Ganesh sticker to be placed on the vehicle and decorations to be hung on the mirrors to keep out "bad eyes."  Pooja was chanted the sweets were smashed strategically on the inside and outside of the rickshaw, marigolds and decorations were placed and then we all stood around and ate the rest of the sweets.  It was time to go, and I couldn't be more excited.  It was me and Martha.  Once on the open road, I knew I had made the right decision of taking on this journey, after so much doubt had played over and over in my head the week before.  We dodged cows, children, goats, buses, tractors, camels.  With the speedometer broken it is impossible to know exactly how slow we were driving, but my guess is about 25-40 km/hour depending on the condition of the road.  Buses, on the other hand, drive about 8,000 km/hour, or at that's what it feels like when they pass us.  We stop for chai once or twice for a break for ourselves and for the rickshaw, as it is really only meant for short distances as it is an in-town taxi.  Every time we stop, of course we have to restart it, which is harder sometimes than others.  We always draw a crowd, although little words are spoken.  Since we didn't get on the road until about 2:00pm, we only made it about 100 km before the sun was starting to go down and we thought it a good idea to stop for the night in Pokaran.  There were few hotels and the first few we inquired about told us they were completely full, although the town and the hotels were completely dead and I could see completely available rooms waiting patiently for guests.  At this point my guess is that they are not used to tourists and do not have or know how to complete the extensive paperwork that is mandatory for foreign guests.  For such a small town, the room prices seemed quite high, but we realized we didn't have another choice when we found a "resort" on the other side of town that was willing to accept us.  I talked the proprietor down to about half of his price and we happily took rest for the night after playing a few games of rummy and me losing every time.

Kilometers Driven:  137 km

Total Kilometers:  137 km

                                      

Before

 After

 Pooja

 Painting in progress

 Astrologer

 Pooja

Ganesh

Day 2 - Thursday, January 10, 2013

We woke up early as planned and even got the rickshaw started in a decent amount of time for how cold it was.  We bundled up, me in layers of clothes, a sweater, a big wool shawl, pants and my mountain boots.  We start the day out with some good chai and head on to our first destination, Jodhpur.  Roads were not quite as nice, with quite a few potholes and bumps, but we make OK time and drove along.  There is a distinct hierarchy of vehicles on the roads in India, whether in the city or on the highway.  It's simple, really, the bigger and faster the vehicle, the more right it has to do absolutely whatever it wishes.  A rickshaw clearly being one of the smallest and slowest vehicle on the road, we are at the bottom of the totem pole and must watch carefully and act accordingly.  Every second is a new calculation.  How fast should I drive?  How much room do I have?  What is on the road in front of me?  How many potholes are there?  How many animals/people/broken down cars/random things are on the road?  Is someone passing me?  Do I need to pass this camel-drawn cart?  I'm forgetting something but you get the picture.  As we drive, other than the same old animals, we see "desert cows" (still not sure exactly what it is), water buffalo bathing in small ponds, and wild peacocks on the side of the road.  The scenery is changing a little from the desert, to having a few more trees, a few more farms.  Feeling more confident today, we drive with relative ease and as we start heading into the big city of Jodhpur I get a little nervous.  I had told myself that whenever I got to a big city I would park the rickshaw somewhere on the outskirts of town and get another rickshaw to take me into town to a hotel.  In my mind I was terrified of driving in the crazy traffic.  But when the time comes to do something, there is no other option than to do it.  Sure, I could have pulled over on the side of the road and panicked and stopped, but as we were eased into the city followed by more and more traffic of the rush hour, it felt ok.  Not great, but I just kept going.  We knew the general direction to go, and after about halfway we called the manager of the guesthouse where we would be staying and he met us to guide us in the right direction.  So now not am I only driving in this heavy traffic but I am trying to follow a tiny and fast motorbike through to the center.  There were times when I was scared and times when I didn't know what to do, but instincts took over and we made it safe and sound to our destination for the next few nights.  I don't mean to brag, but I can't tell you how proud of myself I was (am).  I literally feel like if I can get over my fears and do that, I can do almost anything, and that is a very empowering feeling.

Kilometers Driven:  207 km

Total Kilometers:  344 km

Day 3 - Friday, January 11, 2013

No driving today, need to get a few things fixed here.  The horn that quit working after only a few days, the choke so it is easier to start, and something else I don't remember anymore.  Lazed around a bit, then Martha and I went to a furniture and textile warehouse.  Having studied textiles and merchandising and at sometime planning to open a shop, I was in actual heaven here.  India in general is heaven for me in this aspect, but here I was in the middle of this warehouse surrounded by some of the most beautiful things I had ever seen in one place.  We talked wholesale prices so I could get an idea of how much things would cost to import to the USA.  I could have spent days there, but as the afternoon was getting late it was time to leave.  Good dinner and drinks.  

Kilometers Driven:  0 km

Total Kilometers:  344 km

Day 4 - Saturday, January 12, 2013

Our last day in Jodhpur, we do a little shopping and go see a movie in Hindi.  Even without understanding the dialogue I can get a pretty good idea of what is happening and can even understand some of the jokes.  Ready to get on the road again and make it back to Udaipur.  Martha is definitely excited to make it there, as we have both already been to Jodhpur but she has not yet seen the magnificent Udaipur but has heard so much about it.  

Kilometers Driven:  0 km

Total Kilometers:  344 km

Day 5 - Sunday, January 13, 2013

After needing to stop first thing for the omelets at the famous omelet shop, we finally get on the road around 11:00am after a rickshaw driver offers to lead us to the road to Udaipur.  The traffic isn't as bad in the morning and we make it out with no problems.  We have a lofty goal of making it to Udaipur in one day, but I know it really isn't possible.  I start to realize there is a problem with the rickshaw.  It stalls sometimes and I think the mechanic in Jodhpur has changed something.  When it does stall, it is impossible to start with the regular pull-stick-starter-thingy so we know we have to push start it.  So there are times when I slow down to go over speed bumps or shitty roads with potholes or dodge animals and the engine just stops.  The first time it happens there is a gaggle or children.  They crowd around us but without any words and just smiles and formal "Namaste"s, they just start pushing us and we jump in and drive away.  I couldn't stop laughing, it was the sweetest, cutest, most genuinely helpful act I had seen in a while.  They must have a father or an uncle or someone who has a rickshaw with a similar problem.  For miles and miles I had a smile plastered on my face.  I almost cry as I think of how wonderful this country is.  And I am glad my rickshaw is a piece of shit, for otherwise I would have never had this experience.  We stall many more times, and every time someone comes to our rescue.  Well that's not completely true, there was one time where we were stopped at a railroad crossing.  This time the roads were busy and we were facing uphill so the task of push starting seemed daunting.  After sitting on the side of the road for a small break, we see there is a dirt patch nearby.  We decide we can push it up the hill, turn it around and coast down the hill to start it.  The first 2 attempts are so ridiculous that I am laughing so hard that I can't even try to start the engine.  For all of the onlookers, who are now all stopped at the railroad crossing for the second time, I think it literally looks like we are just doing this for fun as we are running and laughing and doing it over and over again.  But it's at this point that I realize that it is funny now, but after a few more days (or even weeks) of push starts, I don't think it will be as funny.  At some point a man showed up and after explaining with my hands that it cannot be started as normal, he decides to help us and we are finally back on the road again.  It happens again and again but every time we manage to get it started.  We make it about halfway, to Barr where we stop for the night.

Kilometers Driven: 128 km

Total Kilometers:  472 km

Day 6 - Monday, January 14, 2013

We start early in the morning for the last stretch to Udaipur.  Hard to start the rickshaw in the morning, but with some help from the men at the hotel and some onlookers, we get it rolling.  But not for long, as I am starting to realize there is an actual problem with the engine dying all the time.  I stall it 5 more times before hitting the highway, so although we had not had chai or breakfast, we decided to trudge on for fear of stopping and not being able to start again.  The road from Barr to Udaipur is a toll road which is awesome because it is the most perfect road I have ever seen!  Plus we didn't have to pay because we aren't even considered a car and there is no classification for what we are driving.  It is a long haul to Udaipur, with many breakdowns along the way, now not seeming as funny or fun.  Every single time we stop and people come to help, they refuse to listen to me when I say that it cannot be started with the pull stick.  For good measure I try it every time, just in case it magically healed itself (like I am convinced that busted speakers do).  So I use both hands and all of my might to pull the stick as hard as possible.  Nothing.  But then the men walk up, convinced that I am just a weak little woman who is incapable such a feat, and they confidently jerk the stick with one hand, stopping abruptly every single time only half way.  I laugh inside, hoping they are embarrassed for their assumption.  Then every single man wants to look at the engine.  I oblige them sometimes, but after the 7th time I am over it.  I know something is broken.  I know they cannot fix it.  I just want to push start it and be on my way.  After usually 5-10 minutes of arguing we are cruising again.  The sun is warm but not too hot, we are tired, haven't eaten a proper meal all day, only a few snacks.  As we start to see signs that Udaipur is only a few more kilometers away we start to feel hope again.  Traffic is getting heavier and we start the climb up a pretty steep hill, but after a short time we are dipping down into the valley as the sun is going down.  A beautiful sight for sore eyes.  By now the landscape has changed quite a bit.  More and more water, small rivers even.  More trees and plentiful farms and gardens along the roadside.  Only one more breakdown before we reach the city lands us in front of what appears to be a car dealership.  Some men come out and we go through the whole process of trying to explain everything again.  But we know we are close to our destination, and we know that we can have it fixed in town.  So we just want help with a start so we can roll in.  They tell me it is impossible to push start and I tell them I have done it a thousand times by now and it works every time. They look at the engine and tell me what is wrong, but I understand and still want to leave.  They refuse to help us push it because they don't think it will work.  So determined, I push it across the street, Martha starts pushing me down the hill, and we start the engine and head into town.  Udaipur is a town of about 400,000 people, and although I spent about 10 days here a month ago, I am not sure where to go as I spent most of my time in the Lal Ghat area.  But some things seem familiar and I know I can figure it out.  I finally know where I am and know where to go.  But the last stall of the day leaves us frustrated with men treating me like I am a weak and stupid woman who doesn't know anything.  One more look at the engine and I demand they take me to a mechanic.  They refuse to push start it and one guy jumps in the driver's seat as another rickshaw drives behind us and pushes us up the hill with his foot.  We get to a mechanic, but at this point I am prepared to leave it there for the night and hope he can fix it over the next few days that we plan to be in town.  But this angel-of-a-man sees the 2 problems immediately, has the 2 parts, and fixes the problem within 10 minutes.  And he charges less than $5, but I pay him double because I am so happy and pleased with his performance.  It starts and runs like a dream, I can't believe it!!!!!  Next mission:  find parking and our hotel.  I somehow navigate through the narrow, winding and steep streets of Udaipur to where I think I can park.  I am told that I cannot, but I can leave it there for a bit while we check in  to our hotel.  Afterwards we find a place down the street, on the street where I feel it is mildly safe, but as good as it will get for the night.  Dinner at the rooftop restaurant and hit the hay after a long day.

Kilometers Driven: 237 km

Total Kilometers:  709 km

Day 7 - Tuesday, January 15, 2013

No driving today or for the next few days.  The only thing I have to do is relax, maybe do some shopping, whatever I want.  I find a tailor where I order a dress, this time a western style, not Indian.  It is black raw silk, gorgeous brocade trim, big pleats, sweetheart neckline.  Excited to see the final product!  Not that I can really wear it anywhere in India - it shows my legs which would be considered inappropriate.  That's not true, I am going to find a place where I can wear it.  I expect to feel like a million dollars!  In the evening we go to the cultural program at the Bangore Ki Haveli that I meant to visit the last time I was here but never made it.  It was a little disappointing, as I felt like a really awkward tourist watching really awkward fake Indians pretend to be real Indians. I know that doesn't make sense, I'm only trying to say it was weird.  Then dinner at Devraj Niwas, a good end to the day with a few vodka & tonics.  

Kilometers Driven:  0 km

Total Kilometers:  709 km

So that is my journey thus far.  Amazing with a few hiccups that only enriched the experience.  I love being back in Udaipur, I don't know if I will want to leave again.  And I am scared to leave the state of Rajasthan in general because I have had such an amazing time here, with some really great people.  I can only dream the rest of India will be as inviting.